Birthdays are an opportunity to ponder the past, and this year,

dinner at Ma Maison (my home) transported me back to my

seventeenth summer, spent with a family in France.

I felt at home at this restaurant, gazing out the bay window onto

the wooden deck. I had previously enjoyed lunch there, shaded by

grapevines and the large leaves of a tree. French Onion Soup ($8)

was baked in the oven in the traditional manner. Large salads

incorporated a bounty of fresh vegetables, such as Salade de Mâche

($12) with roasted beets, Belgian endive, and hazelnut dressing. The

foil wrapped around leftovers was artistically fashioned into a swan

sculpture.

But on this night, we sat inside under the unusual arched ceiling

of the old home. From stereo speakers came soft strains of a melodic

accordion like you might hear at a café along the Seine River, and my

favorite; the rich voice of Julien Clerc. The tables, dressed in white

linen, were set with fine china and fragrant pink carnations. Soft

indirect lighting set the stage for a romantic celebration.

In the mood for a bottle of Bordeaux, I selected the 2005

Chateau Cadillac Superiéur ($45), a blend of 70% Merlot and 30%

Cabernet, with a fruity essence and spicy, dry finish.

Warm, crusty ovals of bread were served with soft butter

seasoned with shallots and herbs. As a first appetizer, chopped

cooked meats were bound into a thick slice of Pâté Maison ($9). A

delicately-spiced mosaic of many flavors, it was served traditionally

with tiny tart cornichon pickles and creamy piquant Dijon mustard.

Two wonderful award-winning Croquettes de Crabe ($12) were

drizzled with lemony aioli. The interiors of these breaded and crisplyfried

orbs were chock full of moist and lightly-seasoned crab.

A cornerstone of classic French cooking is the stock used to

make sauces. One of the evening's specials, Coq au Vin ($22) was

the most intensely-flavored chicken dish imaginable. White and dark

chicken pieces were slowly braised in a lusciously thick and rich red

wine sauce until tender, and served over mashed potatoes.

A slender caramelized carrot rested atop Coquilles Saint

Jacques ($25). Four fresh sea scallops swam in a smooth bath of

custard-colored polenta and leek sauce. Sprigs of bright broccolini

were cooked but still crisp, and a crescent of multi-layered puff pastry

rested on buttery, parsley-flecked rice.

It was challenging to choose from the list of Chef Lionel Le

Morvan's desserts. Chocolate Fondant flourless cake, crème brûlée,

and cheesecake all tickled my fancy, but the Profiteroles ($8) proved

to be a perfect finale. A pair of tender pâte à choux cream puff shells

held balls of vanilla ice cream, dotted generously with vanilla bean

seeds. They were topped with rich, warm fudge and toasted, sliced

almonds, and encircled by blueberries and sliced strawberries.

As I parted with my silver swans, bon appétit to me. I'd much

rather celebrate food than birthdays.